Quy Nhơn

Enchanted by the ruins of empire, Vietnam-based writer Joshua Zukas ventures to the ancient worship sites of Champa. But his fantasy of an invisible, long-lost culture frays when he catches glimpses of a more complicated, living truth.

After centuries of neglect and the ravages of war, Vietnam’s ancient kingdom of Champa is poised to return to the spotlight.

Perched by the bow-shaped bar, I nurse the last of my mocktail, a liquid rainbow of roselle, lemongrass, mint and passion fruit. The hushed lounge is an unapologetic manifestation of nostalgia for the early 20th century. Rattan blinds and creamy curtains ensconce secluded corners. Dried tropical flowers spring from earthenware vases. As if part of the furniture, two dapper Englishmen perch opposite – though they grumble over laptop screens, not newspapers.